Essentials: Sportcoat
Learn about the history and types of sportcoats.
Written By: Logan
17 September 2023
History:
The sportcoat, sports coat, sport jacket, or sports jacket has its origins in the early to mid 1800s in Norfolk, England. The first coat, or jacket, that preceded what we know as the sport coat is known as the Norfolk Jacket. The Norfolk Jacket has two competing origins.
Norfolk Jacket-
Theory 1:
The first theory is that the Norfolk Jacket was made popular by Thomas Coke, the Earl of Leicester, also known as the Coke of Norfolk. Coke was born in 1754 and died in 1842. During his life, Coke supported the Americans in their war for independence, not relevant but noted, and was an avid outdoorsman. One of his favorite outdoor activities was hunting, even going as far as to plan out his 30,000+ acre estate for the best hunting possible, specifically quails. It is during these hunts in the early 1800s that the Norfolk jacket is credited with being created, where it caught the eye of the Prince of Wales and future King George IV (1820-1830). The jacket is said to have had a belt, box pleats, and patch pockets to store all of the hunting necessities.
Theory 2:
The second theory is that the Norfolk Jacket was made popular by the 15th Duke of Norfolk Henry Fitzalan-Howard. Fitzalan-Howard was born in 1847 and died in 1917. After his father’s death in 1860, Fitzalan-Howard became the new Duke and in the late 1860s developed the Norfolk Jacket. It wouldn’t be until the 1880s when it was popularized by the Prince of Wales and future King Edward VII.
Conclusion:
There is little evidence to support either theory, as there are no pictures of either individual wearing the jacket. No matter which theory is correct, the Norfolk Jacket served as the basis for what would become the modern day sport coat. Over the latter part of the 1800s, the Norfolk Jacket gained popularity among outdoorsmen and sportsmen alike. In the early 1900s, the Norfolk Jacket would begin to be seen being worn in everyday life and not just on hunts or sporting fields.
The Sportcoat-
In the 1900s, the Norfolk Jacket would lose several of its buttons, pockets, and length to resemble the modern day sport coat. It is during this transition in the 1900s you can see the sport coat become more and more popular as a less formal alternative to suits. It can also be seen in its versatility as different fabrics are used in its creation. A coat or jacket once relegated to the hunting parties of 1800s England has developed into a staple for every man that can be worn any season.
How to Wear:
The sport coat is an essential piece of any wardrobe. Different from the blazer based on its sporting heritage. It is perfect for when you want to dress up but don’t want the formality of a suit or blazer. It can be worn with trousers, a button down shirt, and a tie or with jeans and a long sleeve polo. No matter how you want to wear it, there is a sport coat for you.
The Mostly Year Rounder-
The Hopsack Sport Coat, when not adorned with metal buttons, brass or otherwise, is great for year round wear. The hopsack fabric is breathable in the summer but still warm in the fall. You can’t go wrong when dressed up with trousers, dress shirt, and tie.
The Chino Sport Coat is a great choice for the majority of the year, except for the hottest part of the summer and the coldest part of winter. The chino fabric is great to wear with jeans and a polo shirt or with contrast color chinos and an oxford shirt.
Summer Sport Coats-
The Linen Sport Coat is lightweight and overtime will become extremely soft. They come in a variety of patterns and colors. With their texturing, the linen sport coat goes great with lightweight cotton pants and button down shirt or linen pants and shirt.
The Seersucker Sport Coat is as ubiquitous in the summer as the straw boater. The seersucker fabric is lightweight and breathable. Whether you are wearing the classic blue and white stripe or a bolder gingham, these go great with chinos and light weight button down shirts in broadcloth or poplin shirts.
The Chambray Sport Coat can give a splash of color and style. These lightweight fabrics are great for when you want to make a statement about your clothing. Given the wide variety of colors, these are great with matching novelty ties and muted shirt and pants or trousers.
Winter Sport Coats-
The Tweed Sport Coat is an essential winter coat. The hardy tweed fabric provides warmth and style, especially with elbow patches. Choosing which tweed jacket to wear can be hard, especially between classic donegal and herringbone. These coats are right at home with jeans and a rugby shirt or trousers, oxford shirt, and tie.
The Flannel Sport Coat is a great jacket for when you want to stay warm and stylish. The flannel cloth is soft and cozy. These jackets can be worn with corduroy pants, oxford shirt, and tie.